Our friend, Le’Darien has worked their magic AGAIN with this magical Unicorn Modication for the Berlin Tee! They’ve provided step by step instructions below! Check out more from Le’Darien on their instagram @ElEighty00.
One of the reasons I love the Toby K Berlin Tee is it’s amazing hood. From the moment I sewed my first Berlin, I was hooked and have never looked back. It is roomy and it is cut on a way that sits comfortably around my head.
Another reason I love the hood so much? Well…unicorns, of course!
Yes, you’ve read that right! The Berlin Tee’s hood is ideal for unicorns, pandas, dragons, Dino’s, and all sorts of fantastical creations. The base for all of this is simply taking the amazing hood design and adding simple blocking.
Of course, you will start with printing and taping your hood. The hood consists of a side piece and the center stripe
For my pattern blocking, I prefer to use folds, but you can also trace your pattern pieces onto paper or cardstock for easy use.
Pattern blocking your side piece
Once you have cut your side piece out, those of you not using A0 will notice a tape line that runs down the piece, where you connected you parts D6, D7, E6, and E7. This will act as your first block.
Grab your quilting ruler (a Brosephine’s best friend) and draw a line, parallel to the tape line, on each side. I recommend that these lines be ½” from the tape line, as this will be your selvage (⅜” fits with the Berlin’s built in selvage, so it’s all preference).
If you are cutting your pattern blocks out, you can follow the image below.
Pattern blocking your center stripe
Take your center stripe and line it up with the top edge of the side piece of the hood. Mark your center stripe where it reaches the tape line of the side piece. This will allow the pattern blocking of the center piece to match the blocking of the side piece, but there is one more step.
Since the center piece is for folded fabric, blocking the center piece at the point we marked would result in a piece that is too short. Instead, fold the non-fold edge of the center-piece pattern to line up with our marked line. The crease created by this fold will give us the correct pattern blocking line.
Now, like before, use your quilting ruler to make your selvage lines.
Creating a space for the main
One more thing must be done to the center piece. Since the Berlin has a center stripe, it means there is no center seam for the top of the hood. If we want our unicorn to have a man, we must make a center seam.
Take your center piece and fold it in half, widthwise. Now, pretend this crease down the center is your tape line and add a ½” selvage to each side.
Just as a reminder, your selvage lines are there to increase the size of the pattern piece, not decrease it. This is a rule of thumb for knowing which selvage line to follow when cutting out a piece.
Cutting your fabric
Normally, when cutting your fabric pieces, you would be cutting 2 sets of mirrored side pieces and a set of mirrored center pieces; however, you don’t need to pattern block the inside of your hood. Instead, cut your lining fabric based on the standard pattern and cut only one set of blocked side pieces and 1 set of the blocked center piece. This will result in 8 blocked pieces for the outer hood.
Adding your ears
I don’t have a pattern for the ears. This is really going to just be based on your preference, but I do have some recommendations.
- Less is more…majestic! – My mistake, when I was designing this mod, was to have big horse-like ears on my hood. Unfortunately, this weighed my hood into a floppy mess. By keeping my ears around 2-4 inches in height, I got nice ears that stood up.
- Make it sturdy-ish – The ear is made up of 4 equally cut pieces, with 2 pieces being the outer ear and 2 pieces being the inner ear. Use fleece for the inner ear, or batting/stablelizer as a way to create hold.
- Simple Geometry FTW! – my ears are triangles. They are slightly rounded, but that is it. After sewing my front and back pieces together (right sides facing, I flipped them inside out, pressed them, and gave each a slight ear fold.
Creating your mane
This is technically the easiest part of the hood to cut. Simply cut out a rectangle of fabric with a width 1” shorter than the length of your center stripe. The length of this rectangle will be the desired length of your mane multiplied by 4. These measurements will make sense when you are piecing it all together.
I firmly recommend the mane be made out of fleece for a nice, full looking mane. If the fabric you are using for you hood is not that heavy, you can make the back portion of the center stripe out of fleece as well. The weight will keep your hood from flopping around.
Adding it all together
Take your completed ears and grab your 4 parts for the outer sides of your hood.
Take the outer back side piece and place it down right-side-up. On the edge that will connect to the front side piece, line the bottom edge of the ear ½” from where the side piece will connect to the center stripe, with the inner ear facing up. Why? Remember, you need to leave room not only for your seam allowance, bit also you sewing foot.
Take the front side pattern piece and sandwich the ear in between the 2 parts of the side piece, with right sides facing. Baste and Serge/sew.
You should now have one full side piece with ear.
Repeat this process for the other side.
Take the rectangle you cut for the mane and fold the length like an according, creating a total of 3 folds and 4 equal rectangles.
I recommend a basting stitch to keep the edge with the 2 folds together. This will result in the non-basted side consisting of the 2 ends of the fabric and a fold in the middle.
Sandwich the pin/clip basted edge of the mane rectangle between you 2 center stripe pieces (right sides facing) with the main ½” from each edge. Baste and sew the edge. This will result in your back center piece.
Now, take the tiny, square-like, front center piece and pin it to the back center piece and bast and sew. You now have your full center piece.
With all 3 outer hood pieces completed, combine the outer pieces per the regular hood instructions from the pattern. Sew up your regular inner lining pieces and sew them together.
Now, go back to your mane. Using fabric scissors or a rolling cutter to carefully cut the 4 layers into ½” with strips. Use your fabric scissors to cut the folded part of the center stripe of hair. Shake it out like an Herbal Essence commercial.
Attach that sucker to your Berlin Tee and you are now a Majestic Unicorn.